San Juan Mountains
Time to head down the back side of the front range to Durango. From several points of interests plaques, I am now stopping to read those signs that everyone blows by while driving, here are some of the interesting things I found out.
Waldon (River Rock Café)
Stopped in for the best breakfast in 100 miles, but arrived at 10:30 am and they had just stopped serving breakfast. So, I had the best hamburger in 100 miles and it was really good. The interior decor is great with exposed timber everywhere. Staff was fantastic, the only problem was when I was going to pay my bill a thunder storm hit and power went out. Ten minutes later power in and I was off. I would recommend a stop here.



Glenwood Canyon
Glenwood Canyon is a one of those things to see in western Colorado. The canyon walls sore over 1,300 feet above the Colorado River. It is the largest such canyon on the Upper Colorado. The canyon, which has historically provided the routes of railroads and highways through western Colorado, currently furnishes the routes of Interstate 70 and the Union Pacific’s Central Corridor between Denver and Grand Junction.
Driving down this canyon was an experience in Betty, with grades around 8% and people driving 75 mph, I was a little more than nervous. On the long downgrade, I voted downshifted and placed Betty into D2 which allowed engine braking instead of using the brakes to keep my speed under control.
Grizzly Creek Rest Area
About half way down the canyon I stopped at the Grizzly Creek Rest area to get out and stretch my legs and for some quick photos of the river and the canyon.



Glenwood Springs
Glenwood Springs boasts an interesting history intertwined with railroads, gangsters and the gold rush. John Henry ‘Doc’ Holliday is buried in the Linwood Pioneer Cemetery on a hillside overlooking the town of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. Doc Holliday was with Wyatt Earp, at the shootout at the O.K. Corral, in Tombstone, Arizona. He made his way to Glenwood Springs with the hope that the hot springs would offer him a cure. It didn’t. He died from tuberculosis in Glenwood Springs in November of 1887
The trailhead that leads to Doc Holliday’s Grave, also known as Pioneer Cemetery Trail, is a uphill climb with nice views of Glenwood Springs. They even have benches for us out of shape guys.




Glenwood Springs KOA
Glenwood Springs West Colorado River KOA Holiday was the convenient stopping point on my way south. For a KOA this is a place was in a beautiful location, surrounded by views of the beautiful Roan Plateau, the Mamm Peaks and Battlement Mesa, and over 2,800 feet of frontage along the majestic Colorado River. I enjoyed my morning stroll along the banks and even cast a line for trout, again no luck but it was a great experience.





Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Gunnison Tunnel (history time)
Dedicated in 1909, Gunnison Tunnel was the longest irrigation tunnel in the world, and is a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. The tunnel total length is 5.8 miles and cut right through the sheer cliffs of the Black Canyon, taking water from the Gunnison River and funneling it to the semiarid Uncompahgre Valley to irrigate 146,000 acres of cropland.
Legend has it guy named Frank Lauzon, a local farmer and miner, had a dream in which he came up with an idea: dig a tunnel from the more substantial Gunnison River, which flowed in the Black Canyon beyond Vernal Mesa, and divert water to the Uncompahgre Valley. In 1900, rancher John Pelton set out to see if it was feasible and tried run a profile line down the canyon of the Gunnison River to determine whether a tunnel was feasible. The men put their two, heavy wooden boats into the Gunnison, only to crash one of them against the rocks, sending splinters and supplies downstream. Oh well, there went the dream.
Though their mission was a complete failure, it generated interest in the tunnel and a team made up from both the U.S. Geological Survey and Montrose Electric Light and Power Company set out with rubber air mattresses and waterproof bags. They emerged from the precipitous gorge nine days later with their lives as well as photographs and locations of the best sites to tunnel and build a diversion dam.
The plan was for workmen to dig two portals through Vernal Mesa, one would begin on the canyon floor and the other in the valley beyond with the goal of meeting in the middle. The first thing they need to do was construct a access road across the mesa to the Gunnison River, some 2,000 feet below the canyon rim. The road went from rim to river that it descended in places at a 30 percent grade. Drilling equipment had to be hoisted down on skids, and it wouldn’t be until 1932 that an automobile succeeded in getting to the river, although it had to be pulled back up by a team of horses.
When tunnel began in 1905, survey measurements had to be precise, since they were starting at two different locations. Using geometry, engineers were able to draw a direct line, all without computers through the mesa. On July 6, 1909, the tunnel bore–11 feet wide by 12 feet high–was “holed through” as workers digging from the West Portal and those digging from the East Portal met in the middle.
Construction was difficult on the 30,582-foot tunnel which first was performed manually. Conditions provided great challenge for this project. The drilling crews had to deal with clay, sand, shale, and a badly fractured fault zone.
Concentrations of combustible or poisonous gases, large water inflows, and cave-ins all added to the difficult conditions. Despite efforts to ensure worker safety and provide good pay and benefits, miners quickly became discouraged, staying on the job an average of only two weeks. The work paid off and the Gunnison Tunnel became the key structure in America’s first major trans-mountain irrigation system.
President William Howard Taft, vacationing in the West, dedicated the tunnel in September of 1909. Apparently, the president was impressed, and I love this quote that the tunnel will provide water to a “incomparable valley with the unpronounceable name.”
Today, with its system of canals, laterals, diversion dams, and the Taylor Park Reservoir, the tunnel project irrigates nearly 76,300 acres, making the Uncompahgre Valley rich in alfalfa, wheat, corn, oats, potatoes, beans, onions and fruit. Beginning in the 1960s, farmers started growing Moravian malting barley, used for the manufacture of Coors beer. So, all you Coors drinkers can thank Frank Lauzon for his dream.
South Rim Road
In talking to the ranger at visitor center driving the South Rim Drive and stopping at the viewpoints is the primary activity at Black Canyon. The drive itself is short, at seven miles, but there are 12 viewpoints along the way and many of them require a short hike. She told me don’t miss the big four, Gunnison Point, Chasm View, Painted Wall, and Sunset View and boy was she right.







Ridgway State Park
Situated at the entrance to the San Juan Mountains just north of Ouray, Ridgway State Park is a very stunning place and was a great place to camp. The Uncompahgre River runs through the park, though the main attraction is the Ridgway Reservoir. The reservoir is 5 miles long with 1,030 surface acres of water.
I spent a couple of days here and enjoyed it immensely. The only problem was Roxy somehow got a case of the runs, but a quick trip to Ridgway Animal Hospital and some meds and she was on the mends. But let me tell you having a cat with the runs in a RV is no fun.






Ouray
Situated in the heart of the San Juan Mountains in southwest Colorado, Ouray is known as the Switzerland of America. Its history dates back to 1876 when the city was incorporated on October 2, two months after Colorado became a state.




Ouray Riverside Resort • Cabins & Inn & RV Park
The Ouray Riverside Resort has a combination of cabins, hotel rooms, and RV sites just inside the city limits of Ouray. There is café and steakhouse on site that is open to the public and serve breakfast every morning and dinner.
They had live music at night by the Smokin J’s, who had a really good sound. A community fire at night was a great way to wind down listening to the music in the background.
My morning stroll was down the river trail was peaceful and the river was rolling. At breakfast, I had the pleasure of meeting Bombie (the head chef) at the smoke house and the stories he had about the town were great and made breakfast just fly by.





Cascade Falls
Visible from nearly anywhere in Ouray, Cascade Falls was impressive sight. I drove to the trail head leads to Cascade Falls (east up 8th Avenue) to Cascade Falls parking lot. From there it is a short, the sign said moderately steep, ¼ mile walk to the waterfall, but damn it was tough but worth it.


Drive to Durango (Million Dollar Highway)
It’s one of the most scenic drives in the USA, offering breathtaking mountain, valley, and gorge views. The Million Dollar Highway is one of the most beloved roads in the country. The highway, cut from the side of the mountain, delivers jaw-dropping vista after vista. This classic stretch of two-lane blacktop snakes its way through the San Juan Mountains, the wildest and most rugged peaks in the Rockies.
This road is not for the faint of heart. This is the second time I drove it and in a RV it’s a real breath-taker and made my palms sweat. There are a number of turns around mountains that I took at 10 mph, and pulled over numerus time to let people by. Though the entire stretch has been called the Million Dollar Highway, it is really the twelve miles south of Ouray through the Uncompahgre Gorge to the summit of Red Mountain Pass that gains the highway its name. This stretch through the gorge was challenging, it is characterized by steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and a lack of guardrails; the ascent of Red Mountain Pass is marked with a number of hairpin “S” curves used to gain elevation, and again, narrow lanes for traffic—many cut directly into the sides of mountains.
The Million Dollar Highway, also known as U.S. Route 550, is a 25-mile stretch of highway that runs from Ouray to Silverton in southwestern Colorado. The highway was originally constructed in the late 19th century as a wagon trail to transport miners and supplies to the area’s rich gold and silver mines. The best views I found were between Ouray and Silverton.
The highway allegedly cost $1 million to build in 1880. That’s $30 million today. Other sources state EACH mile cost $1 million; others say there’s $1 mil worth of gold underneath and maybe the name even came visitors saying they would only drive the highway if someone paid them $1 million dollars










Durango
I have been to Durango a few times and its really a neat place. I understand why my friend Jeff and his wife love this place. I stayed at the United Campgrounds of Durango which is north of town and right on the trolly stop. This made it convenient to down town and I did not have to break down the RV every time I wanted to go into town.
It had been a month of so since I had a hair cut so after I set up, I headed to Bucks Parlor for a clip. It was the only place in town that did walk in’s and cut my hair cut by Myla. She was delightful and we had a great chat about what was going on. While young this girl has lived an amazing life. Hiking the continental divide trail, to climbing all the peaks around Molas Overlook on route 550. Ah to be young again.



From there I stopped at Frida’s Mexican Restaurant & Cantina, a favorite of mine in Durango for dinner. I was immediately greeted and sat with a smile. Chips are made fresh on site and the salsa fresh delicious. Food was piping hot and made with care and detail. This is definitely a spot I will never miss when coming through Durango.


The next mourning I was woken by the sound of the Durango & Silverton steam engine coming by the RV park and I was off to the train station for a trip up to Silverton. I have ridden this before and really love the ride. I was lucky the next week I read that a rock slide took out part of the tracks.

When I got back, I rented a jeep for the next day for a ride to Engineer Pass.
Engineers Pass (come on I am engineer so I had to)
According to the points of interest sign Otto Meers, an Estonian-born engineer famous for constructing the Million Dollar Highway, built the original road over Engineer Pass. Meers, who was nicknamed the “Pathfinder of the San Juans,” built some of the earliest operating toll roads in Colorado quickly after it was declared a state in 1876.
The pass saw considerable traffic from people traveling between Lake City and Animas Forks. About 12 miles east of the pass, the Ute and Ulay mines were explored near Henson, Colorado. It is estimated that by 1903, $12 million of minerals were produced from the mines.





Mesa Verda National Park
When I set out on my big summer trip, Mesa Verde National Park was on my list. It was in the general direction I had planned to go, and it was actually one of the few places I visited before with Glenn on our big road trips years ago. Mesa Verde National Park is located in southwestern Colorado, west of Durango so it was a short ride in the RV.
Mesa Verde National Park was created to preserve the archeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people, and to educate the general population on the lives of these incredible cliff dwelling tribes. The park contains 600 cliff dwellings that date from 600-1300 AD, and are located near the top of Mesa Verde, aptly named for being a lush (relatively speaking) table rock formation in an otherwise dry area.
I arrived before lunchtime and stopped at the visitor’s center. I was hoping to get on a guided bus tour but they were all packed, but I still wanted to see what I could see. Trailers and towed vehicles are not allowed past the Morefield Campground (which isn’t too far from the visitor’s center), and I noticed several people with campers unhooking in the main parking lot. I decided to ask a park ranger about what was going on and he told me they don’t allow trailers on the access road. A little worried I asked if I would be ok, he asked my length (26’) and height (11’-6”) and I was good to go.
The first thing I did was the Mesa Top Loop Road Auto Tour on Chapin Mesa. This drive takes you to several pit houses, cliff dwelling overlooks, and gorgeous views, all accessible from short paved paths. I saw a story board about downloading the national park’s app to listen to an audio narration. This made it even more enjoyable.
After the loop tour, I drove along the main road, stopping at all the lookouts to see the cliff dwellings from a distance. Eventually I arrived at the Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum, that has a video about the park and the people.
People have lived in and around Mesa Verde for at least ten-thousand years. The first evidence of human habitation comes from points and flakes dropped by Paleo-Indians. The Archaic people left the first evidence of permanent or semi-permanent structures.
Hundreds of years before building cliff dwellings, a new culture developed that is now called Basketmaker III (500 – 700 A.D.). Their signature pit-houses are all over the southwest.
Around 750 C.E, the Basketmaker culture evolved into a Pueblo culture that has four distinct phases. Pueblo I (750 – 900 A.D.), Pueblo II (900 – 1150 A.D.), Pueblo III (1150 – 1300 A.D.), and Pueblo IV (1300 – 1600 A.D.). The height of culture at Chaco Canyon occurred during the Pueblo II period. A major dry period from around 1130 – 1150 A.D. possibly caused the collapse of civilization at Chaco Canyon and a rapid increase in population at Mesa Verde.
Mesa Verde’s high point of civilization was during the thirteenth century. Another major drought forced inhabitants to leave around the 1280’s. Most of the structures built during this time were for defensive purposes. The late thirteenth and early fourteenth centuries were times of severe unrest on the Colorado Plateau. Evidence of chronic warfare, violence, and cannibalism is present throughout the southwest.








